Fashion designer Halston was a presence in Montauk in the heady 1970’s, renting from Andy Warhol on an oceanfront property east of town. One of the joys of Frederic Tcheng’s documentary Halston, produced by Roland Ballester, is seeing Halston at leisure with family seaside. Like Warhol’s estate, co-owned by filmmaker Paul Morrissey, Halston eventually went corporate, taking his Bergdorf Goodman pedigree to the masses in an ill-advised deal with J.C. Penney. For Halson’s A-list career, this was the beginning of a down journey. Yes, all of that is explained in the film, in the cocaine fueled, wild parties seen in archival footage. Using interviews with Pat Cleveland and Joel Schumacher, Halston’s unique moment in fashion is illuminated. His models, known as the Halstonettes, worshipped him. Looking movie star elegant, hair slicked back, impeccably groomed, he was in his heart, a Midwesterner, and wished most of all to re-establish his American roots.

In his prime, he dressed Liza Minnelli. The pink pillbox hat Jackie Kennedy wore in the motorcade when President Kennedy was shot–that was his. One anecdote was that she had dented the hat, and so future versions were made including the dent. Halston may or may not have attended Truman Capote’s legendary black and white ball, but he was present in the many women he dressed for it. Berry Berenson Perkins’ family lent the filmmakers never before seen photos: her sister Marisa Berenson is among many friends who speak about their friendship with Halston.

The filmmakers used a framing device in telling this story. The actress Tavi Gevinson plays an almost detective role in discovering Halston, donning one of his signature flowing frocks at the end. Fortunately, she is lightly used and does not get in the way of a fascinating film.